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Our Burmese Days in Yangon

February 6, 2016 By Lauren 8 Comments

We hoped that visiting Myanmar (aka Burma) just five years after the country opened up for tourism would allow us to experience the perfect travel balance: early enough so the country would not yet be overrun by other tourists, but late enough for sufficient infrastructure to develop to allow for a stay of relative comfort. Thanks to our cab driver (aka Columbo), we didn’t have to wait long to find out whether we had the timing right. Columbo welcomed us from the Yangon International Airport into his immaculate cab with a selection of mints, candy, and hand wipes. En route to our hotel, he asked us if we would like to charge any of our devices (he could accommodate up to three) or perhaps have a rest after our flight with one of the two travel neck pillows he had in stock. And what did this five-star, forty-minute cab ride cost us? 6,000 kyat (or $4.68).

Sule Pagoda marks the heart of downtown Yangon
Monks meandering in front of city hall
One of Yangon’s typically colorful streets
Yangon is filled with food vendors and the people that supply them (like this ice man)

Before I dive into other similarly wonderful experiences like this that we had in Burma, let me try to distill this country’s tumultuous recent history into a few key points: Brits rule Burma for about 120 years, Aung San helps negotiate Burma’s independence after WWII, Aung San assassinated by political rivals in 1947, coup d’état in 1962 and formation of a military junta, some seriously rough times incite widespread protests that are brutally suppressed over the years, junta changes Burma’s name to Myanmar (and the former capital of Rangoon becomes Yangon), Aung San Suu Kyi (daughter of Aung San) held under house arrest for 15 years, sanctions and internal pressure eventually cause junta to formally disband in 2011. Nowadays everything is not perfect (many military officers are now party leaders in the new government), but things are generally moving towards the better.

This background is important to understanding modern-day Myanmar and appreciate why this enchanting country remained closed off for so long. It’s also important for deciding what to call it. Many political opposition groups and Western countries continue to refer to it as Burma as a protest against the legitimacy of the ruling military government that changed its name. The United States still officially refers to the country as Burma, though President Obama has taken to using Myanmar as well during state visits. Chris and I have been using both names interchangeably on our trip.

This history is immediately apparent when strolling the streets of Yangon. There are dozens of grand old colonial buildings that are now crumbling after decades of neglect. Families pack into these dilapidated buildings, and tea shops set out plastic stools under the canopy of satellites and pirated power lines. Burmese men look incredibly elegant walking around in traditional longyis, which are sheets of fabric, usually plaid, tied much like a sarong. And Burmese women can often be found with a white paste made from tree bark—called thanaka—applied to their faces, which acts as both a cosmetic and a sun protectant.

Yangon’s stately old colonial buildings have seen decades of neglect
The sprawling Ministers’ Building (the Secretariat) was the seat of the British government during colonial times and also the site of Aun Sang’s assassination; it has been closed to visitors for decades and will take an estimated $100 million to restore
Yangon’s streets are filled with people, power lines, and satellite dishes
Many families make this ramshackle building their home
And colorful laundry lends a shabby chic aura to the streets
Grabbing a plastic stool and a cup of delicious Myanmar tea
An authentic, but still tourist friendly, traditional tea shop

While Chris and I could have walked around the streets of Yangon and sat in tea shops for days, most people come to Yangon to see its gilded Buddhist pagodas. Shwedagon Pagoda is the most famous in all of Burma and was built to house several religious relics (including eight of the Buddha’s hairs) sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries. Later on in its history, it was covered in gold plating. The pagoda, which is situated at the top of a hill, and its gilded spire can be seen from all around the city. Sunset is the best time to take in this beautiful sight.

There are many temples surrounding the central spire of Shwedagon Pagoda
And most of them are chock full of Buddhas representing different aspects of the teaching
You have to take your shoes off at every Buddhist pagoda, but thankfully teams like these keep the place pretty clean

Shwedagon is a gilded, spired masterpiece
This pagoda is so important, security is tight even for the monks
This little baby was so excited to ring the bell
Devotees worship at special shrines marked by the day of the week they were born
Buddhas for sale in the streets surrounding the pagoda
The Vista Bar offers overpriced beers and spectacular views of the pagoda at night

Shwedagon Pagoda is Yangon’s most striking sight, but we also visited a couple other, less-crowded destinations in the city. At Botataung Pagoda, we were able to walk inside the spire through golden halls and admire a pile of Scrooge McDuck-worthy donation cash. And at Chauk Htat Gyi and Nga Htat Gyi, we were able to admire the largest reclining and seated, respectively, Buddhas we’ve ever seen.

Devotees make it rain for the Buddha Sacred Hair Relic at Botataung Pagoda
Botataung is unique in that you can walk through the gilded walls of the hollow spire
We took a break from the hot, dusty streets of Yangon to grab a drink on the terrace of the Governor’s Residence hotel
This huge sitting Buddha rests in front of an ornately carved wooden backdrop
Nearby, many little Buddhas are available for devotees to reflect on
The Reclining Buddha is over 200 feet long
And features intricately decorated feet

Yangon gave us a fantastic introduction to Burma, but after three days, we were ready to check out Bagan, Burma’s most picture perfect setting.

Filed Under: Adventures Tagged With: Asia, Myanmar

Comments

  1. Mary McCausland says

    February 6, 2016 at 10:28 am

    Fantastic photos! You guys set such a great pace!!

    Reply
  2. Karrie says

    February 6, 2016 at 10:41 am

    Looks amazing! Did you need a visa to go there? Do you have to apply in advance?

    Reply
    • Lauren says

      February 6, 2016 at 12:36 pm

      Yes! They recently rolled out an evisa program and its $50

      Reply
  3. Susan and Ken says

    February 6, 2016 at 11:24 pm

    We had the opportunity to visit Mynamar several years ago. Your pictures brought back memories. Not only the pagodas, but the small plastic furniture. We so enjoy your stories.

    Reply
    • Lauren says

      February 7, 2016 at 4:36 am

      Wow, really? I’d be interested to chat with you about how you got around! Flying between Yangon and Bagan was so interesting!

      Reply
  4. Clare Pierce says

    February 7, 2016 at 8:18 pm

    Lauren, your posts are fascinating. Thank for your detailed reporting. I feel like I am walking along side you.

    Reply
    • Lauren says

      February 9, 2016 at 9:05 am

      Thanks, Clare! Chris says hi too 🙂

      Reply
  5. Molly Fleck says

    February 8, 2016 at 12:14 pm

    So jealous! I really want to visit Burma, but Adam is more hesitant. I’ll have to send this post along to him. 😉

    Reply

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